TEXTILES AND DRESS DESIGNING

different types of grain which are explained below

There are different types of grain which are explained below:

On Grain

Lengthwise grain means the yarn in the fabric runs in the length of the fabric and is parallel to the selvage. Crosswise grain

OffGrain

When the warp and weft threads are not exactly at the right-angled ways, they are termed to be in off grain. This is usually a defect and methods are available to set the grain to the on-grain line.

BiasGrain

When the garment pattern is cut at 45 degrees it is called bias grain. This has a good drape as it is taken in the diagonal way. Further extending of the pattern tends to increase the fall of the fabric and gives beautiful wavy effect.

OnGrainPrint

This is when the print is neatly lined up with the warp yarns and is parallel to the selvedge. It is on grain print and results in a neat look of the design on a fabric.

OffGrainPrint

In contrast to the above on grain print, off grain is the printed set of design which is not parallel to the selvedge. This can be considered as a defect in printing as it directly implies poor quality in printing. It is also important to remember that when the textile material is made in a weaving loom or a knitting machine it will be in the perfect grain only. During the various textile processes like washing, calendaring, scouring, mercerisation the selvedge are held tight resulting change in the grain lines. When the grain line is not maintained in the way it should be done, there are chances for the fabric to lose shape, sag and even be uncomfortable to wear.

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