This is the term that explains the direction in which the fabric is woven. It determines greatly by the way the fabric falls on the object or the wearer. Understanding the grain helps in minimising the wastage and to create interesting fullness effects on the garment. Grain refers to the alignment of warp and weft yarns inside a fabric. When the fabric is selected for construction the grain line is analysed. When grain is not in the proper angle steps are taken to make it right. Also, diagonal grain is chosen when the design requires more flexibility for good fit or fullness for decoration. The common type of grain seen in garments is the straight grain. The main reason for this is, to get full strength for the garment which can be obtained when the garment is cut in the same direction as it was constructed. Apart from this, the perfectly twisted warp yarns that work like a skeleton on the fabric is very strong. The combination of that warp along with the weft will enable good compaction and better properties when cutting a garment pattern. In order to check if the fabric is on proper grain, one thread can be ravelled from selvedge to selvedge and then the fabric is folded on half. If this can create neat edge in the bottom, it is said that the material has been laid on proper grain.
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